30 April 2008

Ecuador - budget

I´ve lost my notebook with all the expenses, so no breakdown for Ecuador. It would have not made sense anyway as I´ve spent 8 out of 10 days in Galapagos, food included. The total with $40 airport tax was about $1860, a crazy amount for a backpacker [a reason why the vast majority of tourists in Galapagos is over 50 years old].

P.S. no souvenirs to report. majority of mass produced staff comes from Peru, so I am on a shopping spree here :)

29 April 2008

Highlights of Galapagos Islands. The End.

Day 6, Tuesday, April 23

Morning - Rabida Island with its red beach

Afternoon - Sombrero Chino Island. In the sunset light the island looked amazing. The green hill, corral beach (not sand!), lava stones, cliffs...



Other
Day 6 pictures


Day 7, Wednesday, April 24

Bartolomé is a young volcanic island. Purple, red, orange volcanic formations, cones and a 35C degree heat made it Mars experience for me! The island is famous for its Pinnacle Rock and the panoramic view from the top.





In the afternoon we were walking on "fresh" lava (only 125 yrs old) - Sullivan Bay, Santiago Island.

Amazing nature creations - pahoehoe lava drawings (lava bubble here)




Other day 7 pictures

Day 8, Thursday, April 25

6 am visit to Seymour Norte Island before the flight back to the mainland. The island is a bird paradise. We saw courtship of magnificent and great frigate birds as well as of blue-footed boobies.



Courtship of blue-footed boobies is sometimes called clown dance as the pairs (more so the male) whistle and honk, stretch their necks vertically, spread their wings, and lift feet - showing off bright blue feet.

Magnificent and great frigate birds also make interesting sounds (whistling or clacking) as part of their courtship ritual. But more interesting is to see male frigates to puff up their scarlet throat sacks and spread the wings as the female frigates are approaching.



Other day 8 pictures - more boobies!

-

It is amazing to see such an intense wild life in close proximity to the civilization. I think that is the best part of Galapagos Islands. The animals have an absolute right of the way. They do not care about people, fearlessly staring straight at you. So many times we were forced to get off the trail to give some privacy to iguanas, albatross, gulls, blue-footed boobies and of course sea lions. This is my last picture from Galapagos:


All seats are taken!


Galapagos photo set

The End!

28 April 2008

Highlights of Galapagos continued

Day 3 pictures are upload on flickr here.

Day 4, Sunday, April 21


We are spending the whole day on and around Espanola island. Three hours in Gardner Bay with a nice beach and of course sea lions. Snorkling off the beach was fun especially when we were swimming above shark's cave (white tipe reef shark). Two of them came out and were swimming right beneath me. Ahhh, scary.

Afternoon hike took us through Punta Suarez.

Different marine iguanas - from redish to greenish


Colonies of Waved Albatross. One field was even called the albatross airport as many pairs are breeding there. Had a chance to see and film the courtship ritual with beak clacking and a bit "drunk" walk of the male bird.






Further along on trail we saw Nazca Boobies. They two were in couples, cleaning each other.



Another sight was shallow-tailed gulls "doing it".

The rest of Day 4 pictures are here.

Day 5, Monday, April 22

Punta Cormorant, Floreana island with a greenish beach.



Flamingo laguna lake, quite empty



Other day 5 pictures.

25 April 2008

Highlights of my trip to Galapagos Islands

I am back in the heights and coolness (!!!) of Andean mountains with every piece of my luggage smelly from the salty waters of the Pacific Ocean. I am as tanned I can be, darker than some people of the bus in Quito.

To cover in great detail 8 days in Galapagos Islands would be impossible, so I will try to hit the highlights in a number of posts. I hope the best part would be my photographs. I managed to take about 2,000 only! I will try to add descriptions of some animals and places in my Galapagos album on flick here.

Day 1, Thursday, April 18

Arriving to Galapagos to find out that our boat has technical problems and will be ready mañana, mañana!! After being put in a hotel in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, we headed for Charles Darwin Research Station to see the tortoise breeding center and Lonesome George, the last remaining Pinta tortoise.


Day 2, Friday, April 19

Our schedule is slightly changed and we are visiting the highlands of Santa Cruz while waiting for the news about the boat. On our itinerary - a farm with more tortoises, lava tubes ("Los Tuneles") and pit craters ("Los Gemelos").

The highlight of Day 2 was the afternoon visit to Tortuga Bay - a gorgeous beach with fine white sand, foaming waves and sky-blue water. Playa Blanca in Colombia is immediately forgotten. It is the first time for me to go jumping over waves in the Pacific Ocean and I love it! The water is not as salty as in the Caribbean.



In a cactus forest (Prickly Pear Cactus) a short walk away we find colonies of marine iguanas. They are black, the color of lava stones. Baby and adult iguanas are taking in the sun, hardly moving at all.



Day 3, Saturday, April 20
We are on the boat! Starting our cruise on South Plaza island. The morning hike was full of great shots - marine and land iguanas, and Galapagos sea lions. Up the cliff besides a stunning view we saw quite a number of birds - red-billed tropic bird, shallow-tailed gull, blue-footed booby, nazca booby, and various types of finches.


After lunch snorkeling became fun once we reached low cliffs where sea lions were playing in the water within the hand reach. Dozens of the them were right, left and below us speeding through the water. One of the pups smacked my mask with his fin. Otherwise they are quite precise and only seem to be on the verge of crashing into the rocks, but in the last second their bodies magically curve around the sharp edges.

In the afternoon we hiked in the wetlands of Santa Fé island. Spotted Santa Fé land iguana, found only on this island. On the sand beach we saw a harem of sea lions with one big male and a group of cows, immature sea lions and pups.

17 April 2008

Quito, Ecuador

I don´t know what I´ve said at the check-in in Cartagena, but instead of paying $30 airport tax for exiting the country I paid only $10. My satisfaction was shortlived. In Bogotá my brand new Leatherman Micra was confiscated at the security check point. Oh well.

Quito is cool though. I don´t know why, but it is quite relaxing here. No altitude issues, but still can´t sleep for more than 6 hours a day. Since I only had two days in Quito, yesterday I started early. At 7:30 am I was already wandering the streets of the historical part of town.




Plaza Grande, La Merced, Plaza San Francisco, Plaza Santo Domingo - I covered it all in two hours, running up and down Quito´s hills, taking in the beauty of my first Andean city. The biggest challenge was climbing up the hill for Basílica del Voto Nacional. No, not even that - climbing up the basilica´s tower was breathtaking. The last part in form of iron ladders to the top with no rails was scary to say the least.







In the afternoon I went to Mercado Santa Clara to taste some delicious local food followed by a tour of the local craft market.


pork with potatoes

This morning we made a trip to equator, walked a couple of times across the hemispheric line at Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World). The tour at Museo Solar Inti Ñan was fun, especially demonstrations of water circulation north, south and dead on the equator. I got my passport stamped along with an official certificate saying I managed to balance an egg on a nail on the equator.

After another round of great food at the market I made a trip down the steep hill to Guápulo, a very cute neighborhood that is hardly ever on any tourist´s to-see list.



I feel I´ve seen enough of Old and New Quito. I am ready for my 8-day Galapagos trip!! Leaving tomorrow at 5:30 am to catch an early flight.

More pictures are in Ecuador set on flickr.

Colombia - budget

I kept track of all my expenses (freeky I know!) to see in the end how much it costs to go round the world.

.

Airfare AccomTransportFoodActivities Visa/FeesInternetGiftsOther Total

.

4482.553.35113.8519.95507.55533.7427.9

.

5.5010.316.6714.232.496.250.946.630.4653.49


First row is the total expense in USD in the category, second row is the expense per day.
Airfare is what it costs me to get into the country and fly around (I redeemed miles for NYC-Bogotá-Cartagena flight).

Transportation - local taxes, buses, boats, bikes

Activities - entrance fees to museums, etc

Visa/Fees - visa costs ($40 for Colombia) and airport taxes paid locally

Gifts - besides shoes and a wallet I got myself goldplated earrings...


So it costed me about $53 per day in Colombia with the food category being the highest. Colombia is definitely cheaper than the US, but not as cheap as I thought it would be.

Hopefully this proves useful to somebody.

15 April 2008

Colombia - souvenirs

My souvenirs from Colombia are shoes and a wallet decorated with Mola, a reverse appliqué technique developed by the Kuna, the indigenous people of Colombia and Panama.


Cartagena, Colombia

I stepped into another country that accepts Colombian pesos, but is located on another planet - the Caribbean. The air is humid and the city and people look like I imagined Cuba, just with food and comfort.

Yesterday I spent the whole day walking the colonial part of town, looking at old churches, plazas, balconies and narrow streets of Cartagena. Cartagena is pretty, no question about it. There are not so many backpackers, it is rather a destination for Colombian tourists. Local vendors are not only not shy, but quite aggressive in approaching tourists with an offer of a restaurant menu, a trip to Playa Blanca or a look at emerald jewelry store.




I would say a day is enough to appreciate the city. To enhance the Cuban feel we went to Habana Cafe across the hostel last Thursday. People were dancing to live Cuban music, we were sipping sweet mojitos and staring at old black and white photographs of local and Cuban celebrities. It was fantastic.


14 April 2008

Playa Blanca, Colombia

I am back from paradise, literally. Look (El parasio in Spanish means paradise):


I´ve been lucky to meet two travellers in the airport of Cartagena who I could join on a little adventure to Playa Blanca. They say it is the prettiest beach around Cartagena, located on Barú island, 20 km southwest of the city. In order to save money and experience something local decided to get to Playa Blanca using the public transportation, which would entail 4 parts - two buses, a ferry and a motorboat. Actually, as we learned later it was not a motorboat, but a motorbike. Two bus rides were quite uneventful, it just took us a while to find the second bus at a busy Bazurto market. Instead of a ferry, we took a boat to cross the river. Before our boat even touched the shore, we were "attacked" by 20 local guys [a step back - Cartagena´s population is predominately of African origin]. They were pulling us out of the boat, grabbing arms and shoulders, screaming at us something, trying to get our attention. I felt like a wounded insect attacked by a dozen of ants. Eventually we realized that there is no motorboat, it is motorbike that could take us to Playa Blanca. The only other option was to wait for a bus an unknown amount of time. I am sure my mum would have not approved riding a motorbike on crappy sand roads with no helmet on. But getting to the beach was very tempting, so we did. We road those bikes for 40 minutes and I must have prayed at least 5 times hopping to get to the final destination alive.

But as soon as we made it to the beach we knew our little adventure was absolutely worth it. White sand, blue sky, azure sea - picture perfect view.

We spent two nights at El Parisio, second to last shack on the beach run by Mama Ruth. We were the only guests in this wooden structure (don´t even know the appropriate word for it) in a room with no walls, doors or windows. Rooms were separated by hanging cloth that also served as a door. I don´t think it gets more basic than this. Actually, all accommodation in this part of the island is very rustic - one can choose among camping, a hammock or a bed. There is no electricity or plumbing on the island. I was surprised to see a beautiful place in such proximity to a large urban area so undeveloped. We could not have been happier about it.

We did absolutely nothing for the full two days. I caught up on my Economist reading, learnt how to play poker and an Argentinean card game fifteen. I swam in the morning when the sea was calm. The sea was so salty I lied on my back for minutes without a single movement. For a second I thought I was swimming in the Dead Sea. I walked the beach at sunset and sunrise. I danced to my tunes on iPod while watching the sun set. I snorkeled among colorful fishes right by the beach trying to unsuccessfully catch them in the shallow water. I discovered I can spend hours in a hammock just looking at the sea and feeling the breeze touch my toes. I loved the sea and how it changes at different times of the day - from white to blue and dark black.

Some pictures.

Sunrise





Harsh sun during the day:




Sunset:







It was an absolutely amazing gateway. Now with more appropriate suntan for South America I can continue up into the sky. Quito is next on the itinerary.

practical concerns

I am faced with a dilemma. Despite $300 repairs and cleaning, sensor on my large Nikon D70 camera is still dirty. So all my pictures are ruined with a black spot in the right top corner. I am thinking about sending the camera with an extra lens back to New York. I still have my pocket Panasonic Lumix with me. That would mean a lighter daypack, more space, less worries about being robbed, etc. I don´t make money off my photographs, so why all this pain? Uploading large images in random Internet cafes with shitty screens and slow Internet connection is really painful. Even blogging is harder than I thought. Going absolutely offline is tempting.

10 April 2008

leaving Bogotá

I am leaving Bogotá in couple of hours and could not be happier about. Not that I did not like it here, but I am definitely looking for something more special and different. Bogotá feels like just another big urban hive, people are busy commuting to and from work.

I hit all the streets in La Candelaria (historical center) - from the top where streets are flooded with students to the bottom where all the touristy sights are located. I visited the temporary exhibit of the Gold Museum and Botero Museum. Gold pieces of indigenous people are marvelous and I can´t wait to go to Peru and Bolivia where this culture is more apparent in everyday life. Bogotá is definitely not overwhelmed with tourists. When I went to the top of the mountain (one of the key sights) with a funicular I was the only tourist up there. Last night at football match we were also the only gringos. I am not complaining, I am surprised.

Colombians are very attractive people. I don´t know how they stay fit as the most common food around here seems to be deep fried chicken and empanadas. I miss Mexico where almost everything I tasted was delicious, not the case of Bogotá. Three days into the trip and I must have lost 3-4 pounds. My diet is horrible - coffee, beer and diet coke.

Bogotá is bordered to the east by a mountain range - dark green forests often in clouds make the city so much prettier. The altitude of 2600 m keeps the city quite cool. The nights are cold. I had to pull out my sleeping bag to stay warm at hostel. Altitude adjustment took a day, although walking up the stairs at Cerro de Monserrate (the panoramic view trip) left me breathless. I am worried about my Machu Picchu hike. But for now I am going down. Cartagena is the next stop.

09 April 2008

Bogotá, Colombia

I have arrived, no adventures from the doors in Brooklyn to the hostel in the central part of Bogotá. My brand new backpack and untouched guidebook reveals my true identity - a virgin traveller. But as with age, dirt will come.

On Monday afternoon the city looked grumpy with a heavy overcast. The only colorful thing in town was the Colombian flag. Or was it me who was grumpy with an hour of sleep on Sunday night? First I managed to get lost in a city with a grid, then I made my way to Plaza de Bolívar where two handsome policemen walked me to the tourist office for a good map. By the time I was all set to explore beautiful La Candelaria, it got dark.





At night I got a glimpse of how Colombian upper-middle class lives in the northern part of the city. Thanks goes to my former colleague and his family! It must have been the coca tea at dinner, but at 11 pm at hostel I still had the energy to join a beer drinking party. The party turned into a masquerade and photo session simultaneously - a Brazilian guy was pulling out of his backpack glasses, red noses, Viking hat, nurse hat, etc. Needless to say my first night was fun.


Today already in a company of two I headed north to a small town Zipaquirá that is famous for its salt cathedral. It is an absolute must in Colombia. Completely underground in the former salt mine inside the mountain there is a functioning cathedral (services on Sundays only) with another 1 km of paths inside the mountain depicting life of Jesus. I was stunned in disbelief that this construction is of salt. Yes, I licked the wall and it was salty! To my surprise there were no tourists, we were almost the only ones inside. Amazing! Some blurry pictures below.







Cute town of Zipaquirá: