20 July 2008

Settling down in BA

My somewhat painful apartment search is over. Today I moved in into a 10-room house shared by international students in San Telmo area of BA. We have got one Argentinean, one Polish, one Dutch, one German, two Swiss, one Mexican, one American and me (one room available for those who´s been counting). The Mexican guy is a chef who cooked dinner on Saturday and suggested we create a menu, collect money and he would cook. Is it heaven or what? My tiny room costs $300/month, which is cheaper than some popular hostels, but more expensive than my 6-bed shared dorm in Palermo. I get my privacy, wifi, TV with cable, cool roommates and a rather cool home. I am excited!

So why was the apartment hunt painful? I am yet again "lucky" with timing. As I was told it is the beginning of a school year, so there are bunch of long-term international students arriving. The majority of landlords are requesting a minimum 3-month stay. So with the lack of supply and high demand I did not really have a lot to choose from within my budget.

Also I initially wanted to live in Palermo or Recoleta (more expensive areas than San Telmo) as advised by some friends here. The funny thing is that I did not really like Palermo. It is the coolest area in BA with all the fancy stores, design shops, restaurants and bars. It is very nice, but it is absolutely too cool for me. I am not nearly as cool, never have been, never will be. Palermo is like Soho in New York. Unless you have the money to spend, I think it is crazy to live there.

Recoleta is more like Upper West Side of New York with 10-12 story high buildings and doormen. It is definitely a nice area, but I did not feel the character there. Maybe not yet.

Then I arrived to San Telmo and fell in love. I think San Telmo is more like Lower East Side in New York - dirtier, graffiti everywhere, narrower streets, smaller buildings, more down to earth crowd, artsy, hip. In other words - amazing. Now I am on a mission to learn all about the area. Hopefully, pictures will follow.

On Monday I start my Spanish classes. Ideally I would have classes in the afternoon, so I can go out at night, sleep through the noon and then go to school. Given the club scene, restaurants, neighborhoods and other activities in Buenos Aires I cannot imagine a better lifestyle.

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