25 June 2008
Rio
ironically, i got sick in Brazil (in supposedly the warm destination). lost my voice completely. feverish. and it is raining in Rio...
24 June 2008
Sáo Paulo
Sáo Paulo (18 mln) is New York (20 mln) of South America. I believe that. Impressed by very nice residential neighborhoods and overall city feeling.
THE image of Sáo Paulo for me - subway at the rush hour
As soon as the train left, a new one approached. We were there at 6 pm and then at 11 pm. At 11 pm it was still busy!
Currently I am waiting for the sun in Rio de Janeiro. It is the rainy season here and in the whole northeast Brazil... Should I go up?
THE image of Sáo Paulo for me - subway at the rush hour
As soon as the train left, a new one approached. We were there at 6 pm and then at 11 pm. At 11 pm it was still busy!
Currently I am waiting for the sun in Rio de Janeiro. It is the rainy season here and in the whole northeast Brazil... Should I go up?
22 June 2008
Sao Paulo after 50 hours of transit
I am alive, but slightly gone crazy. I spent more than two days on a train and then on buses.
I barely made it for the death train from Santa Cruz to Brazilian border. Instead of 17 hours of bumpy rides (train rides can be bumpy, did you know that?), I survived the while 19.5 hours. Saw real missionaries on the train - tall, blond, speak dutch (?), white hats, and blue overalls with a shirt.
Because of the delay, I got to the Bolivian border 5 minutes before closing, ahead of a big gringo group. To get to the Brazilian immigration office, which located in the town of Corumba at the bus station, I jumped to a minivan of a tour operator. The Swiss lady was trying to sell me Pantanal tours and turned out to be extremely useful. She just grabbed my passport and handed it over to the immigration officer in front of three stunned Bolivians. Needless to say, the border was basically closed (Saturday, open till 1 pm only) and a lot of other tourists had to stay in Corumba until the next day.
I decided to skip Bonito due to overcast and cold weather and off-season. To go snorkeling in those crystal rivers you need sun and a group of people, apparently. None of which I had at my disposal. I also decided not to do Pantanal tour as I did pampas in Bolivia, but here it was cold and three times more expensive. So I jumped on a bus to Campo Grande and there I changed for another bus to Sao Paulo. Two buses cost me about USD 150, which is insane. No food, no movies. I think I do not have any thoughts to think after these 50 hours.
I barely made it for the death train from Santa Cruz to Brazilian border. Instead of 17 hours of bumpy rides (train rides can be bumpy, did you know that?), I survived the while 19.5 hours. Saw real missionaries on the train - tall, blond, speak dutch (?), white hats, and blue overalls with a shirt.
Because of the delay, I got to the Bolivian border 5 minutes before closing, ahead of a big gringo group. To get to the Brazilian immigration office, which located in the town of Corumba at the bus station, I jumped to a minivan of a tour operator. The Swiss lady was trying to sell me Pantanal tours and turned out to be extremely useful. She just grabbed my passport and handed it over to the immigration officer in front of three stunned Bolivians. Needless to say, the border was basically closed (Saturday, open till 1 pm only) and a lot of other tourists had to stay in Corumba until the next day.
I decided to skip Bonito due to overcast and cold weather and off-season. To go snorkeling in those crystal rivers you need sun and a group of people, apparently. None of which I had at my disposal. I also decided not to do Pantanal tour as I did pampas in Bolivia, but here it was cold and three times more expensive. So I jumped on a bus to Campo Grande and there I changed for another bus to Sao Paulo. Two buses cost me about USD 150, which is insane. No food, no movies. I think I do not have any thoughts to think after these 50 hours.
20 June 2008
Brazil
I hope I am leaving Santa Cruz tonight on the Oriental Express (or "Death Train") for Brazil. On Saturday night I should be already in a small town Bonito. The rest I have not planned yet. I have heard about crazy internet prices in Brazil, so I intend to spend much less time online. It might mean a pause in my posts. I will see.
And I am out of the cold!
Starting with Sucre (the prettiest town in Bolivia - flickr set) I consider myself to be out of the cold. Done! Basta! No more thermal underwear! No more too-many-layers-to-count. No more praying for hot showers. No more sleeping under 4 blankets (and sometimes even a -9C sleeping bag). No more alpaca socks, gloves and hat. Welcome to sunblock, repellent and heat! I am going down in altitude (means warmer) and closer to equator. I am happy!
19 June 2008
Potosi, Bolivia
My visit to Potosi was quite memorable from the first to last seconds. As soon as I arrived I felt I was in the highest city in the world. At altitude of 4060m a.s.l. I felt every breath in my chest.
Potosi is a mining town with a capturing history till these days. Silver was mined for 300 years, bring wealth, numerous death to indigenous people and finally African slaves to secure non-stop work at mines. When silver deposits were depleted, miners were going after ore, a mix of various minerals.
Today there are about 700 mines, 400 of which are working. The mines are owned by the government and cooperatives of miners (from one to twenty people) dig out minerals, paying taxes to the government. Up until recently the tax was 25%, but with the rise of mineral prices, miners´ profits grew and so did the attention of the government. A few months ago the tax was raised to 50%. Hence, the strikes. Unhappy miners protest in the city and block all the roads, paralyzing the country for days. The strikes are going on right now not only in Potosi, but in all mining towns around Bolivia, which means pretty much the whole southern part of the country.
Due to its history, Potosi is a lovely colonial town (Potosi set on flickr). Most backpackers though come to visit the mines. They are known to shock for their inhuman and dangerous working conditions. There are 15,000 people working in the Potosi mines with about 2,000 children (illegal, but no law enforcement). The life expectancy of kids who start working in the mines at the age of 10-11 is 30 years. Adult miner´s life expectancy is 40 years.
All the tours go into the working mines (read - explosions are normal!). I chose Panda Tours with the best reputation in town. We changed into special clothing, got our helmets with a headlight and went to miners´ market to buy some gifts for miners - coca leaves, dynamite, 96% alcohol and soda drinks. After a steep climb of 500 m that left me breathless we entered level one of the mine.
Level one is quite walkable. Just hit head a couple of times. Still the smells and darkness made three out of 11 return back outside. Level two is very narrow, dark and hot. You basically crawl on your knees. It is off the level two we encountered Vasilio, a miner with 33 years of mining experience. He was preparing a 40 cm opening to insert dynamite. These kind of explotions are common during the day. Big ones are done at 5 pm to insure that everybody is out of the mine.
We went down to the third level (level 4 is off limits for tours) where miners were pushing carts on rails - 4 miners (2 upfront, 2 in the back) are pushing 2 ton cart with minerals from level 4. Others were filling up iron casks to be pulled up to level 2. I could hardly breathe there. We were down in the mine for an hour and a half and I could not be happier to be out. Thirty minutes later I had a splitting headache, felt sick and thirsty.
That night we could not get out of Potosi because of strikes. All roads were blocked and nobody knew for how much longer. An idea of getting stuck here until Saturday (miners remove road blocks on weekends) was not encouraging. So the next morning we left at 6 am determined to get to Sucre somehow. The taxi driver ensured us that nothing was leaving town. We arrived to an empty bus station with a lonely taxi-collectivo parked next to it (usually bus company agents scream destination names even outside the bus station). The collectivo driver offered to drive us to the blockage and ensured us the would be another taxi waiting to take us to Sucre. The reality was different. We walked around the first road block (1.5 km uphill), passing trucks, cars and miners that were just waking up and making breakfast. Nobody was aggressive (other stories were told by other backpackers). On the other side of the block we saw nothing but fields and the road climbing uphill. Nothing! No taxi, no cars, no people. Nothing, just the sign - Sucre 146 km. We were three, me and Lauren and a local guy who shared a can with us. Soon we were joined by another Bolivian man who told us that there was another road block 20 km away, after which there would be a cab. Sweet, just 20 km of walking with my backpack and daypack in pretty high altitude! Left with no choice we starting walking. After 2 km I could hardly keep up with locals and then we witnessed the miracle! A small bus (Miss Little Sunshine bus) was coming in our direction. It turned and picked us up! Two people upfront, four in the very back and three in the middle with backpackers on our knees. I did not really care, I would have flown above people just to get a ride. The next road blockage was quite small (just 3 trucks) and the taxi was waiting on the other side. At 11:00 we were already checking into the hostel!
Potosi is a mining town with a capturing history till these days. Silver was mined for 300 years, bring wealth, numerous death to indigenous people and finally African slaves to secure non-stop work at mines. When silver deposits were depleted, miners were going after ore, a mix of various minerals.
Today there are about 700 mines, 400 of which are working. The mines are owned by the government and cooperatives of miners (from one to twenty people) dig out minerals, paying taxes to the government. Up until recently the tax was 25%, but with the rise of mineral prices, miners´ profits grew and so did the attention of the government. A few months ago the tax was raised to 50%. Hence, the strikes. Unhappy miners protest in the city and block all the roads, paralyzing the country for days. The strikes are going on right now not only in Potosi, but in all mining towns around Bolivia, which means pretty much the whole southern part of the country.
Due to its history, Potosi is a lovely colonial town (Potosi set on flickr). Most backpackers though come to visit the mines. They are known to shock for their inhuman and dangerous working conditions. There are 15,000 people working in the Potosi mines with about 2,000 children (illegal, but no law enforcement). The life expectancy of kids who start working in the mines at the age of 10-11 is 30 years. Adult miner´s life expectancy is 40 years.
All the tours go into the working mines (read - explosions are normal!). I chose Panda Tours with the best reputation in town. We changed into special clothing, got our helmets with a headlight and went to miners´ market to buy some gifts for miners - coca leaves, dynamite, 96% alcohol and soda drinks. After a steep climb of 500 m that left me breathless we entered level one of the mine.
Level one is quite walkable. Just hit head a couple of times. Still the smells and darkness made three out of 11 return back outside. Level two is very narrow, dark and hot. You basically crawl on your knees. It is off the level two we encountered Vasilio, a miner with 33 years of mining experience. He was preparing a 40 cm opening to insert dynamite. These kind of explotions are common during the day. Big ones are done at 5 pm to insure that everybody is out of the mine.
We went down to the third level (level 4 is off limits for tours) where miners were pushing carts on rails - 4 miners (2 upfront, 2 in the back) are pushing 2 ton cart with minerals from level 4. Others were filling up iron casks to be pulled up to level 2. I could hardly breathe there. We were down in the mine for an hour and a half and I could not be happier to be out. Thirty minutes later I had a splitting headache, felt sick and thirsty.
That night we could not get out of Potosi because of strikes. All roads were blocked and nobody knew for how much longer. An idea of getting stuck here until Saturday (miners remove road blocks on weekends) was not encouraging. So the next morning we left at 6 am determined to get to Sucre somehow. The taxi driver ensured us that nothing was leaving town. We arrived to an empty bus station with a lonely taxi-collectivo parked next to it (usually bus company agents scream destination names even outside the bus station). The collectivo driver offered to drive us to the blockage and ensured us the would be another taxi waiting to take us to Sucre. The reality was different. We walked around the first road block (1.5 km uphill), passing trucks, cars and miners that were just waking up and making breakfast. Nobody was aggressive (other stories were told by other backpackers). On the other side of the block we saw nothing but fields and the road climbing uphill. Nothing! No taxi, no cars, no people. Nothing, just the sign - Sucre 146 km. We were three, me and Lauren and a local guy who shared a can with us. Soon we were joined by another Bolivian man who told us that there was another road block 20 km away, after which there would be a cab. Sweet, just 20 km of walking with my backpack and daypack in pretty high altitude! Left with no choice we starting walking. After 2 km I could hardly keep up with locals and then we witnessed the miracle! A small bus (Miss Little Sunshine bus) was coming in our direction. It turned and picked us up! Two people upfront, four in the very back and three in the middle with backpackers on our knees. I did not really care, I would have flown above people just to get a ride. The next road blockage was quite small (just 3 trucks) and the taxi was waiting on the other side. At 11:00 we were already checking into the hostel!
17 June 2008
Salta, Argentina
I have spent a week in the Salta area enjoying amazing mountains, wineries and most importantly people. I felt I arrived to another planet - people were so nice! An older couple stopped us on a street for a chat, gave us apples and orages. In all the stores we were asked where we were from and they really were curious. When we said thank you for something, they responded: "No, no, thank you!" I was pleasantly surprised (or more accurate would be - stunned!). I think just this attitude would have made my visit here pleasant, but on top of that the area is magnificent.
I spent two days in Salta. At first I was slightly shocked at how European the city was. I would say there is nothing to do in Salta, but eat well. It takes half a day to visit the plaza and maybe take a finiculur to the top of the mountain for not-so-special views. The main attractions are outside the town and the best to explore them in my opinion is to rent a car for a couple of days (also cheaper than going on multiple tours). So that is what we did.
We started with so-called southern circle - from Salta to Cafayate, from Cafayata on unpaved road to Cachi, from Cachi back to Salta.
The road 68 becomes scenic 45 km north of Cafayate - Quebrada de Las Conchas with various red rock formations. See pictures.
In Cafayate we visited two wineries and one goat cheese factory with the latter being the most entertaining of all.
From Cafayate we took Route 40 (the logest road in Argentina, over 5000 km) to the north, visiting and sleeping in a cute tiny place called Angastaco, then Molinos and Cachi. The mountains here fell on their sides - Quebrada de Las Flechas. Through the national park of cactus (cardones) we returned back to Salta for another dinner at Old Jack steakhouse (Viejo Jack). I must have eaten half a kilo of steak or more.
On the fourth day we headed to the north of Salta towards Tilcara on a winding route 9. At around Tumbaya we started seeing colorful mountains. Quebrada de Humahuaca is famous for its seven color hills at Purmamarca. Sliced mountains at the town of Maimará are also very cool. Tilcara is a nice tourist hangout where we stopped for an expensive lunch. After a visit to Purmamarca at sunset we headed back to Salta.
The Salta set on flickr
At night we went to the mall (!) and watched a movie (!). Sex and the City movie! Everybody can start laughing at me now, but I liked it!
The next day I was off to Bolivia. It took me 18 coldest hours of my life to get to Potosi.
I spent two days in Salta. At first I was slightly shocked at how European the city was. I would say there is nothing to do in Salta, but eat well. It takes half a day to visit the plaza and maybe take a finiculur to the top of the mountain for not-so-special views. The main attractions are outside the town and the best to explore them in my opinion is to rent a car for a couple of days (also cheaper than going on multiple tours). So that is what we did.
We started with so-called southern circle - from Salta to Cafayate, from Cafayata on unpaved road to Cachi, from Cachi back to Salta.
The road 68 becomes scenic 45 km north of Cafayate - Quebrada de Las Conchas with various red rock formations. See pictures.
In Cafayate we visited two wineries and one goat cheese factory with the latter being the most entertaining of all.
From Cafayate we took Route 40 (the logest road in Argentina, over 5000 km) to the north, visiting and sleeping in a cute tiny place called Angastaco, then Molinos and Cachi. The mountains here fell on their sides - Quebrada de Las Flechas. Through the national park of cactus (cardones) we returned back to Salta for another dinner at Old Jack steakhouse (Viejo Jack). I must have eaten half a kilo of steak or more.
On the fourth day we headed to the north of Salta towards Tilcara on a winding route 9. At around Tumbaya we started seeing colorful mountains. Quebrada de Humahuaca is famous for its seven color hills at Purmamarca. Sliced mountains at the town of Maimará are also very cool. Tilcara is a nice tourist hangout where we stopped for an expensive lunch. After a visit to Purmamarca at sunset we headed back to Salta.
The Salta set on flickr
At night we went to the mall (!) and watched a movie (!). Sex and the City movie! Everybody can start laughing at me now, but I liked it!
The next day I was off to Bolivia. It took me 18 coldest hours of my life to get to Potosi.
15 June 2008
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
The southwest corner of Bolivia and the area around San Pedro is an absolute treasure for those who like desert and Mars alike landscapes.
So San Pedro is touristic (and rightly so), but in off season I found the village to be an adorable place inhabited by super nice folks. I did three tours in one and a half day and I missed out on another five, not to mention opportunities for sand boarding, horse riding and biking. Any direction you are headed you will find something amazing to see - salt desert, lagoons, geysers, volcanoes. One drawback though - San Pedro is expensive compared to all the neighboring countries and Chile itself.
The first half-day trip was to Atacama Desert, Flamingo reserve at Chaxa Lake (Laguna de Chaxa).
Perfectly shaped Volcan Licancabur (5950 m) is dominating every landscape.
Salt Lake and reflections of Andes mountain range:
The next morning I left at 4am for geysers El Tatio. We have arrived there at half past six in the morning. Outside there is barely a hint of sunrise and -10C. It was so cold that I could not care less about geysers. But then when the sun was up I appreciated the different shapes and formations of geysers.
In the afternoon I visited Valley of the Moon (Valle de Luna):
More pictures in Chile collection.
So San Pedro is touristic (and rightly so), but in off season I found the village to be an adorable place inhabited by super nice folks. I did three tours in one and a half day and I missed out on another five, not to mention opportunities for sand boarding, horse riding and biking. Any direction you are headed you will find something amazing to see - salt desert, lagoons, geysers, volcanoes. One drawback though - San Pedro is expensive compared to all the neighboring countries and Chile itself.
The first half-day trip was to Atacama Desert, Flamingo reserve at Chaxa Lake (Laguna de Chaxa).
Perfectly shaped Volcan Licancabur (5950 m) is dominating every landscape.
Salt Lake and reflections of Andes mountain range:
The next morning I left at 4am for geysers El Tatio. We have arrived there at half past six in the morning. Outside there is barely a hint of sunrise and -10C. It was so cold that I could not care less about geysers. But then when the sun was up I appreciated the different shapes and formations of geysers.
In the afternoon I visited Valley of the Moon (Valle de Luna):
More pictures in Chile collection.
12 June 2008
From Uyuni (Bolivia) to San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) - part 2
We woke up at 5:30 am. Actually, our driver slept through, we were supposed to leave at 5:30 am. I woke everybody up and we left at 6:15 am. As I realized later, the later, the better. Any earlier we would have frozen alive at geisers at 5065 m a.s.l.
Geiser basin Sol de Mañana, quite a crazy sight. No rails, walk till you fall into the boiling mud. An ugly smell and smoke is right into your face.
The next stop is at hot springs by the most beautiful lake ever - hot water breathing through the ice...
Driving by Piedras de Dali (Dali´s Stones)
Final stop at Laguna Verde (Green Lagoon) with a perfect reflection of Volcan Llicancabur.
At 10:30 am I was left on the border with Chile for a connection bus to San Pedro de Atacama. Hippie bus long forgotten on the border:
Chile! We were descending from 4400 m to 2200 m in a brand new bus on a brand new road through desert that stretched as far as the eye could see. I felt the landscape started to resemble slightly the southwest US. Next stop is San Pedro de Atacama for 2 days.
The full set of Uyuni trip is here.
Geiser basin Sol de Mañana, quite a crazy sight. No rails, walk till you fall into the boiling mud. An ugly smell and smoke is right into your face.
The next stop is at hot springs by the most beautiful lake ever - hot water breathing through the ice...
Driving by Piedras de Dali (Dali´s Stones)
Final stop at Laguna Verde (Green Lagoon) with a perfect reflection of Volcan Llicancabur.
At 10:30 am I was left on the border with Chile for a connection bus to San Pedro de Atacama. Hippie bus long forgotten on the border:
Chile! We were descending from 4400 m to 2200 m in a brand new bus on a brand new road through desert that stretched as far as the eye could see. I felt the landscape started to resemble slightly the southwest US. Next stop is San Pedro de Atacama for 2 days.
The full set of Uyuni trip is here.
09 June 2008
From Uyuni (Bolivia) to San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) - part 1
Before I planned my route in South America, I knew I had to visit the Salar de Uyuni. Those landscapes from the southwest corner in Bolivia seemed to be out of this world.
x
I arrived to Uyuni by train at 2:20 am and at 3 am I was already under four blankets, freezing without a hint of sleep. At 9:00 am the next morning I bought a tour leaving at 10:30 am, ecstatic about my efficiency and perfect timing.
Day 1.
The first stop was at the cemetery of trains (Cementerio de Trenes), 3 km south of the town.
Colchani, a town on the edge of Salar de Uyuni with a few salt processing factories.
We are entering Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt flat at 3,650 m above the sea level.
Isla de Pescado with cactus in the middle of salt desert:
Sunset in the middle of Salar de Uyuni:
Spending the night at amazing salt hotel on the border of the salt flats. Walls, beds, tables, chairs are made of salt. Quite crazy!
Day 2.
We left the Salar, driving towards San Juan through gorgeous desert on very bumpy road. We see vicunas and a few bushes. Otherwise, it is absolutely dead.
At 11 am we arrived to Volcan Iruputuncu that is still active. We are at 4000 m above the sea level and I start feeling the altitude effects.
I feel like we are passing the prettiest landscapes without stopping. If it were up to me, we would have made the same distance in a week, but with thousands of pictures versus only hundreds!
At lunch time we arrived to Laguna Cañapa - gorgeous lake at 4150 m a.s.l. Some drivers of jeeps are feeding foxes. Not very eco-friendly.
Hedionda Lagoon, blue water, flamingo, windy!
We are still climbing up - Desert of Siloli at 4800 m, thin area, windy, cristal clear skies.
The next stop is at stone forest - Arbol de Piedra (Stone Tree)
Finally, the highlight of day 2 - Laguna Colorada. The water is purple from the minerals. Crazy!
x
I arrived to Uyuni by train at 2:20 am and at 3 am I was already under four blankets, freezing without a hint of sleep. At 9:00 am the next morning I bought a tour leaving at 10:30 am, ecstatic about my efficiency and perfect timing.
Day 1.
The first stop was at the cemetery of trains (Cementerio de Trenes), 3 km south of the town.
Colchani, a town on the edge of Salar de Uyuni with a few salt processing factories.
We are entering Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt flat at 3,650 m above the sea level.
Isla de Pescado with cactus in the middle of salt desert:
Sunset in the middle of Salar de Uyuni:
Spending the night at amazing salt hotel on the border of the salt flats. Walls, beds, tables, chairs are made of salt. Quite crazy!
Day 2.
We left the Salar, driving towards San Juan through gorgeous desert on very bumpy road. We see vicunas and a few bushes. Otherwise, it is absolutely dead.
At 11 am we arrived to Volcan Iruputuncu that is still active. We are at 4000 m above the sea level and I start feeling the altitude effects.
I feel like we are passing the prettiest landscapes without stopping. If it were up to me, we would have made the same distance in a week, but with thousands of pictures versus only hundreds!
At lunch time we arrived to Laguna Cañapa - gorgeous lake at 4150 m a.s.l. Some drivers of jeeps are feeding foxes. Not very eco-friendly.
Hedionda Lagoon, blue water, flamingo, windy!
We are still climbing up - Desert of Siloli at 4800 m, thin area, windy, cristal clear skies.
The next stop is at stone forest - Arbol de Piedra (Stone Tree)
Finally, the highlight of day 2 - Laguna Colorada. The water is purple from the minerals. Crazy!
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