Nevertheless, I opened my 2 kg Indonesia guidebook to read where I was going. Having been told multiple times NOT TO STAY in Kota, I figured I would head straight to Ubud (Kota was not too bad 2 weeks later, actually). I skipped the whole southern Bali with its surfing vibe for more Balinese inspired Ubud and surroundings.
An official taxi costs $19.5 for an hour and half ride to the center of Ubud (for the simplicity purposes I will mention all prices in dollars, US$1=Rps10,000). I chose to stay on a quiet street Jalan Bisma, romantic hideaway west of Forest Monkey road, next to my very own rice paddies. My advice would be to leave bags at fancy Café des Artistes and shop around for rooms. Rooms costs from $15 to $35/night. However, Bisma street is a 15-minute walk to the bulk of restaurants.
I fell in love with Ubud before I even reached the center. Streets of galleries and beautiful houses plot a dramatic entrance to town. For the first time I have experienced Balinese architecture and style with its attention to detail and embodied peacefulness. It made the city unique and I would say the most special I have seen in Asia. I spent the rest of the afternoon wandering on Main road towards Monkey Forest and beyond. Every house had a temple inside the beautiful yard behind exquisite doors with sculptures of mystical animals at the doorsteps. Streets beyond the center are quiet and wonderful. I cannot recommend enough taking time to stroll.
That’s exactly what I did for 6 hours the next day. Equipped with Lonely Plan’s recommended walking tours and a map of Ubud’s surroundings I walked through amazing Campuhan Ridge to the small village of Bangklang Sidem and Payogan. Learn how to say “Selamat Pagi” (Good morning) as everyone nods at your appearance.
I then also toured artists’ village of Penestanan. Every house is a residency of an artist with his very own exhibition that seems to be unattended most of the time. After being lost for a couple of times I finally reached the Sayan Terraces (hotel) where one can hike down to Ayung River. Next door is Four Seasons Hotel with an amazing pool at the drop of the hill. If I had extra $600 (standard room rate) I would not mind a night there.
My third day I spent touring north-west part of Bali. I left Ubud at 7 am with a private driver ($30/day) and luckily was the first one to arrive to Lake Bratan and its Bedugul temple. Up and down the slopes we reached twin lakes of Buyan and Tamblingan and then the coffee plantations of Munduk. The highlight of the trip was the rice terraces at Jatiluwih. They are so amazing that tourists are being charged $1 to drive through them. Further climbing up Mt. Batukaru through some narrow roads and tiny old villages untouched by the development happening in Ubud/Kota, we reached lonesome, mysterious covered in green moss Batukaru temple. What a contrast was Tanah Lot Temple where I arrived 2 hours later – surrounding shops and vendors take more space than the Temple itself. It’s tourism at its worst. Too bad, the temple off the coast in the waves of Indonesian Ocean is impressive.
Bedugul Temple
Rice Terraces at Jatiluwih
Batukaru Temple
Tanah Lot Temple
Taxi drivers in Ubud start to annoy me. It is impossible to walk by without being offered transport service literally every 15 meters. iPod helped a bit.
Fourth day and last in Ubud I went to the east Lake Batur.
It’s time to leave Bali behind. Next week I am winding down on Gili Islands, the white beach paradise with famous dive sites.
40 more pictures on flickr
