Lonely Planet (buy Footprint guides - more info!) puts Apurimac River in its top3 for rafting. It is deep, fast and much more exciting (=dangerous) than Urumbamba river (comparing commercial routes). Rapids are class 3 to 5 vs. Urumbamba's 1-2. Only two companies in Cuzco run rafting trips on Apurimac River (Mayuc and Swiss Rafting). The 3-day/2-night trip with Mayuc costs 550 soles (approx. USD 200).
We were 25 people, 65% of which were Israelis. Rafting is definetely on Israeli´s trail and not on gringo´s as 80% of Mayuc clients are Israelis. Some guides even give instructions in Hebrew. Quite funny.
My rafting experience was basically zero. I don´t think I was even paddling on a quiet river in Pennsylvania. Here I had to learn to react fast to such commands as "forward", "right/left back", "high side right/left" and my favorite "inside" (or our guide´s version - "my God!", the command to slide to the bottom of the raft).
Our three day trip was 67 km long with the second day being the longest. We were rafting for about 7 hours. It was fun - technical rapids where we had to turn around rocks in a fast rapid or more exciting rapids with huge waves. I was paddling in the front and was showered by cold waves of Apurimac River. Rapid is passed successfully - high five- paddles in the air!
The third day turned out to be the scariest day of my life. An hour and a half before the end of the trip we were going through a shallow rapid category 3 just before a rapid class 5. Our raft got stuck on a rock and the rest was happening within seconds. The boat started to get filled up with water and before I knew it me and a guy behind me were washed out by the strong stream. I was floating down the river completely not in control of my body or direction. I saw nothing, I could not catch my breath and I was constantly feeling I was drawing. I was trying to relax as I was instructed to do and let the water bring me somewhere safe, but it was easier said than done. I was thrown at rocks by the river and it did not feel welcoming at all. As I was "speeding" along a huge rock I saw the safety rope was thrown for a guy behind me. I went underwater and could not get out. Most probably just a few minutes have passed, but I was already exhausted to fight the river. In that moment I was honestly saying good-bye to my family. Then in a few seconds I appeared close to the first raft. Thanks to the quick reaction of guys inside the boat I was pulled out of the water. Within 5 minutes or so my breath was back to normal. I was in a state of shock and quite angry.
The river was so strong, one of my contact lenses was washed out. I was also pretty hurt in my right arm. It was not broken or dislocated, but I still could not move it. There was no more paddling for me that day.
In hence sight I think I was lucky to be pulled out by that boat as the next rapid class 5 was within meters and safety kayaks were behind me. However, given I had a helmet and a life jacket on I would most probably survived anyway. I was still conciseness and breathing when saved, so quite a happy ending!
Now I am waiting for my ugly bruises to go away and my arm to heal. After that I am ready for more adventure!
2 comments:
Urumbamba! Tumbauba!
dude, please stay alive! i wouldn't know what to do with all your stuffs if you perished in south american rapids. that, and i can think of few more people who would prefer to see you in one piece rather than not.
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