[there are 122 pictures in the Pampas set. please take a look!]
Starting from chocolate croissant delivered to the doors of our tour company by a French baker (there was also an American guy selling banana-nut bread and granola bars) I was in love with my trip to Las Pampas (wetlands).
We were 7 in a large jeep heading for 3 hours to Santa Rosa de Yacuma where a boat was awaiting us. The road was the worst I´ve seen so far and I loved it! The scenery and basic villages is exactly how I imagined my trip to be in South America. Only now in Bolivia I found it! I felt the movie Motorcycle´s Diaries could have been filmed here yesterday. Wetlands started to dominate the landscape and I could not stare enough at very green everything with a few trees. I felt I was driving through Africa where I´ve never been before. Too many movies...
Before heading to the river we had lunch in Santa Rose. That day Bolivians were celebrating Mother´s Day and the restaurant was packed with families with kids. Also there was a black monkey - the cutest thing I have ever seen in my life! It was moving between branches using its tail as the fifth arm. Once I saw the monkey got close to the back buildings, I gave up my soup and grabbed my camera. I reached for the monkey and it jumped on my head. I extended my arm to take a picture of us two, but the monkey stick its head into the lens. Perfect size - 67 mm. So there was - I was playing-fighting with the monkey, kids were surrounding me, jumping to touch the monkey, others wanted to see pictures and at the same time monkey was jumping on my head. Given the loud band in the background it most probably looked like a circus performance. I cannot stop smiling looking at my pictures.
Las Pampas
Animals everywhere. Absolutely amazing. Alligators, tons of birds, turtles, monkeys, dolphins, capybaras, the river and funky trees with crazy roots above the ground - you just have to open your eyes and take it in. I always felt we were going to fast. I just wanted to float in the river and watch every colorful bird for a couple of minutes. One of the birds (name?) would jump into the water (and under), fish, get out, spread the wings for them to dry.
A chichilo monkey jumped into our boat and stole a banana. Then it could not decide what to do - whether to eat the banana or jump to the tree that was slowing getting away. Pure monkey jumped too late (who would give up banana???), fell into the water, but somehow managed to get to the bush.
After unpacking and a welcome tea, we headed to see the sunset and then return to the lodge in the dark. We were searching for the eyes of alligators with our torches. The light reflects in their red-orangy eyes. But this is not the best part. Floating in the boat with lights off, staring into the dark, listening to the pampas sounds under bright starry skies was overwhelming. This place is breathtaking.
Day 2
I woke at sunrise, took a cold shower and jumped into a hammock until breakfast. I would have never thought I would find such peace of mind here just by listening to birds and watching the river. I could totally see myself staying here for a week, taking slow boat rides, napping in a hammock.
But the program did not allow us doing nothing. We were told to put on rubber boots and get ready for "anaconda walk". We went to actual pampas to search for snakes. They don´t call it wetlands for nothing - there was hardly any dry soil. We were soaking in the mud. I even managed to fall on my butt, thankful I put my camera away 3 seconds ago. The hike through swaps with flowers was worth the dirt and heat! But we also found one anaconda. The guide said it was 7-8 years old, male, about 2 meter long.
When walking back to the river we were crossing little ponds instead of walking around. A lot of fun - walking in the rubber boots full of water.
After lunch we finally got our long awaited siesta - 2 hours in a hammock. Later another beautiful boat ride.
The next morning we went swimming with pink dolphins and piranhas fishing.
After lunch we went back to Rurrenabaque. The same night the weather changed - temperature cooled down from 30C to 16C. It rained and our flight got cancelled (runway is not paved...). I could not be happier. Rurrenabaque is such a cute place between the jungle and pampas!
Now I am back in La Paz, wearing everything I have and still cold.
31 May 2008
30 May 2008
Boat trip through the jungle
After extensive tour shopping and bargaining in La Paz, I decided to go first to the jungle and las pampas (lowlands). I also decided to get to Rurrenabaque by boat. That way I could visit shortly the Madidi National Park and hike in the Bolivian jungle. I bought the tour at 7 pm on Friday. At 5:30 am the next morning I was picked up at my hostel.
The first 2.5 hour drive was amazing. At high altitude we were close to the mountains to enjoy the stunning rock formations. After breakfast in Coroico we were driving on unpaved gravel road at maximum speed of 40 km/h. Sometimes the road was so narrow only one car at a time could pass. You wonder how buses make it here. The dust from the road has changed the color of plants and trees from green to grey. In the front seat of four-wheel drive I felt I was in for a real adventure.
Our lunch stop was in the town called Guanay where we were watching the acrobatic movements of colorful parrots.
In the afternoon we were finally on the boat, going up on Mapiri river in a dugout canoe. We are 15, two guides and a chef. The first camp site met us with the tropical rain, which was the highlight of the day for me.
the morning after
On Day 2 we visited a small town of Mayaya, which I felt was still unspoiled by tourists (there was only one tour company in La Paz organizing the river trip). In a group of 6 people we went up the village to wander around simple stores. I liked reactions of people. They were smiling, teenagers were curious, kids were shy. Some stores still sell and buy gold. We were told this region was hit by the largest gold rush 35 years ago. The banks of the river saw some 50,000 gold hunters, which today is very hard to imagine. To this day there are people working on the river. They say it takes 14-16 hours of hard work in the water to get 1 gram of gold.
At lunch we visited no-name community where we played with some kid´s monkey. Kids´ attention was stolen by a polaroid camera of a French girl. I think all kids of the village got a personal photograph. The eldest kid of 12 years old was curiously looking through any picture British guys had in their diaries.
Later we did a 3-hour hike into the jungle. Ajo tree (ajo is garlic in Spanish) gave a beautiful smell through the forest. At the small pond we were piranha fishing. At night we did a night walk through the jungle to listen to the sounds of birds and insects. Quite interesting.
On Day 3 we did a walk through Madidi National Park. We saw a couple of gigantic trees, and one of them I climbed - a hanging root reminded me my school sport activities. Somehow I was disappointed - the rainforest was not thick enough, huge enough, exotic enough.
The rest of the day we were on the boat, making our way up to Rurrenabaque.
By 6 pm we arrived to the jungle town of Rurrenabaque, a very quite and relaxing warm place. The next morning I was leaving for Las Pampas tour.
The tour set on flickr.
The first 2.5 hour drive was amazing. At high altitude we were close to the mountains to enjoy the stunning rock formations. After breakfast in Coroico we were driving on unpaved gravel road at maximum speed of 40 km/h. Sometimes the road was so narrow only one car at a time could pass. You wonder how buses make it here. The dust from the road has changed the color of plants and trees from green to grey. In the front seat of four-wheel drive I felt I was in for a real adventure.
Our lunch stop was in the town called Guanay where we were watching the acrobatic movements of colorful parrots.
In the afternoon we were finally on the boat, going up on Mapiri river in a dugout canoe. We are 15, two guides and a chef. The first camp site met us with the tropical rain, which was the highlight of the day for me.
the morning after
On Day 2 we visited a small town of Mayaya, which I felt was still unspoiled by tourists (there was only one tour company in La Paz organizing the river trip). In a group of 6 people we went up the village to wander around simple stores. I liked reactions of people. They were smiling, teenagers were curious, kids were shy. Some stores still sell and buy gold. We were told this region was hit by the largest gold rush 35 years ago. The banks of the river saw some 50,000 gold hunters, which today is very hard to imagine. To this day there are people working on the river. They say it takes 14-16 hours of hard work in the water to get 1 gram of gold.
At lunch we visited no-name community where we played with some kid´s monkey. Kids´ attention was stolen by a polaroid camera of a French girl. I think all kids of the village got a personal photograph. The eldest kid of 12 years old was curiously looking through any picture British guys had in their diaries.
Later we did a 3-hour hike into the jungle. Ajo tree (ajo is garlic in Spanish) gave a beautiful smell through the forest. At the small pond we were piranha fishing. At night we did a night walk through the jungle to listen to the sounds of birds and insects. Quite interesting.
On Day 3 we did a walk through Madidi National Park. We saw a couple of gigantic trees, and one of them I climbed - a hanging root reminded me my school sport activities. Somehow I was disappointed - the rainforest was not thick enough, huge enough, exotic enough.
The rest of the day we were on the boat, making our way up to Rurrenabaque.
By 6 pm we arrived to the jungle town of Rurrenabaque, a very quite and relaxing warm place. The next morning I was leaving for Las Pampas tour.
The tour set on flickr.
Copacabana & Isla del Sol
Copacabana is a very cute town, touristy only along the main street leading to the docks. Since I missed the morning boat to Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) - I forgot about the time difference between Peru and Bolivia, I had a chance to walk around simple streets of Copacabana accompanied by two homeless dogs.
In the afternoon I headed to Isla del Sol, where according to Inca legends the sun was born. Climb steep Inca stairs from the tiny port to the top of the island (4000 m) left me breathless. I could tell immediately I was hiking in high altitude.
The rest of the day I spent walking through the southern part of the island, enjoying the views from both west and east. I was after a very specific sight - I saw snow peaks in the sunset´s pink light when I was driving to Bolivia the night before.
The morning cristal clear views:
At 1:30 pm I boarded a bus to La Paz. Even by that bus ride I could tell I liked Bolivia the most so far. Look at these mountains (shot from the bus window):
Many more pictures on flickr.
In the afternoon I headed to Isla del Sol, where according to Inca legends the sun was born. Climb steep Inca stairs from the tiny port to the top of the island (4000 m) left me breathless. I could tell immediately I was hiking in high altitude.
The rest of the day I spent walking through the southern part of the island, enjoying the views from both west and east. I was after a very specific sight - I saw snow peaks in the sunset´s pink light when I was driving to Bolivia the night before.
The morning cristal clear views:
At 1:30 pm I boarded a bus to La Paz. Even by that bus ride I could tell I liked Bolivia the most so far. Look at these mountains (shot from the bus window):
Many more pictures on flickr.
24 May 2008
Peru - budget
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I have completed calculating my budget for Peru. I am running over budget (Inca Trail was a killer). $70/day for Peru is nothing to be proud of...
23 May 2008
Puno
This week I fled Peru. My last stop in Peru was in Puno on Lake Titicaca at the amazing heights of 3,812m (almost 4km above New York!). I initially planed to stay overnight, but then I felt an urge to cross the border to Bolivia. Somehow 25 days in Peru were enough.
Before leaving I visited for a couple of hours floating islands of Uros. Even though the islands are very commercial, I think they are an absolute must. Where else can you walk on springing land made out of reeds? Each step is slightly shaky and soft. Quite unique experience.
Puno set on flickr.
Before leaving I visited for a couple of hours floating islands of Uros. Even though the islands are very commercial, I think they are an absolute must. Where else can you walk on springing land made out of reeds? Each step is slightly shaky and soft. Quite unique experience.
Puno set on flickr.
La Paz
Today I am tour shopping all day. It is quite tiring and confusing. I can go by boat to the jungle&pampas. I can fly and do pampas or/and jungle trip. Then there are interesting hikes not too far away from La Paz and, of course, I could climb Huayna Potosi (6088 m). They said it is the easiest peak to conquer for an average human being without significant training. But it is a really hard job at very high altitude. The last day you are mountain climbing in the snow with axes and the equipment I have never seen in my life. Just for comparison reasons, the highest mountain in the North America is Mount McKinley (6,194m), Africa - Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895m), Mount Elbrus (5,642 m)– highest in Caucasus, and Europe - Mont Blanc (4,810 m). 3 day/2nights trip sounds ehhhhh challenging. I am seriously thinking of doing it. Can I do it?
21 May 2008
Ica-Lima
Last night at 6:30 pm I crossed the Bolivian border on foot and I am happily reporting from Copacabana on lake Titicaca. This fact is amazing, let me tell you. I woke yesterday at 4:30 am in Lima after 3 hours of sleep, caught a flight to Juliaca through Cuzco at 6:25 am, and already at 10:30 am I arrived to Puno on Lake Titicaca.
Yes, I was in Lima. It was a 15 hour detour from Arequipa to the north for many reasons and my interview for INSEAD admissions on Monday was one of them. On the way to Lima, we stopped for 5 hours in Ica, a wine & pisco capital of Peru. Actually, we stopped to visit Oasis de Huacachina, an oasis in dunes famous among backpackers for its hills and sandboarding opportunities.
With a night bus from Arequipa we arrived early in the morning. I found oasis to be just the shadow of its former glory (originally built for Peruvian elite) and dunes to be dirty and ugly.
Ha! Little did I know. Persuaded by my travel buddy, we booked a boogy ride for 10 am. The sun was up, we boarded a funny vehicle and off we went! It was the best adrenaline rush of my trip by far. Screw the rollercoasters! Go boogy riding! And did I mention stunning dunes?
I chose sliding on the board straight down on my tummy versus sandboarding (slower). Imagine a hill of hundred meters and a sandboard waxed with candle speeding downhill and you get my scream of fear and excitement at the same time. I have NEVER in my life had so many bruises on my legs. But everyone of them is 10 times worth it!
Ica set
In Lima we did nothing. We stayed in Miraflores, an upscale area of Lima, absolutely not what you´d expect of Peru. Expensive malls, restaurants, clubs, and even big grocery stores looked amazing. I shopped for a business suit and shoes for my interview at a "black" market, obviously not in Miraflores. A woolen suit costed me about USD 35 and leather shoes USD 15. That´s where cheap ended. The rest was expensive by choice - fancy meals, clubs, drinks, movies. I felt I was back in New York (almost!) for 4 days.
[to be continued]
Yes, I was in Lima. It was a 15 hour detour from Arequipa to the north for many reasons and my interview for INSEAD admissions on Monday was one of them. On the way to Lima, we stopped for 5 hours in Ica, a wine & pisco capital of Peru. Actually, we stopped to visit Oasis de Huacachina, an oasis in dunes famous among backpackers for its hills and sandboarding opportunities.
With a night bus from Arequipa we arrived early in the morning. I found oasis to be just the shadow of its former glory (originally built for Peruvian elite) and dunes to be dirty and ugly.
Ha! Little did I know. Persuaded by my travel buddy, we booked a boogy ride for 10 am. The sun was up, we boarded a funny vehicle and off we went! It was the best adrenaline rush of my trip by far. Screw the rollercoasters! Go boogy riding! And did I mention stunning dunes?
I chose sliding on the board straight down on my tummy versus sandboarding (slower). Imagine a hill of hundred meters and a sandboard waxed with candle speeding downhill and you get my scream of fear and excitement at the same time. I have NEVER in my life had so many bruises on my legs. But everyone of them is 10 times worth it!
Ica set
In Lima we did nothing. We stayed in Miraflores, an upscale area of Lima, absolutely not what you´d expect of Peru. Expensive malls, restaurants, clubs, and even big grocery stores looked amazing. I shopped for a business suit and shoes for my interview at a "black" market, obviously not in Miraflores. A woolen suit costed me about USD 35 and leather shoes USD 15. That´s where cheap ended. The rest was expensive by choice - fancy meals, clubs, drinks, movies. I felt I was back in New York (almost!) for 4 days.
[to be continued]
19 May 2008
Arequipa & Colca Canyon
I am so behind on my updates... So here is a quick catch up on my last week.
We bussed to Arequipa (10 hours from Cuzco), a white colonial city in Peru. I could not resist the temptation of comparing Arequipa to Oaxaca, a colonial town in Mexico. Oaxaca won.
We wandered around the white churches, ate at the market and photographed the view point of volcano El Misti (5822m).
The next morning after running around arranging my detour to Lima we headed off to Colca Canyon. The deepest canyons in the world are located close to Arequipa. Colca Canyon is 3191 m deep (6 hours away) and Cotahuasi (9 hours away) is 163 m deeper. It is more than twice as deep as Grand Canyon in the US!
We enjoyed a gorgeous afternoon in the stop-over a small town of Chivay on the way to Cabanaconde. The biggest attraction for me - fields of wheat. I even took a video of wheat moving with the wind. More peaceful and beautiful than a plastic bag in the wind from American Beauty movie.
At night we arrived to Cabanaconde, the most basic village I have stayed in so far. The vast majority of women were wearing national bright dresses with colorful hats. Horses and donkeys were the means of transportation and our dorms smelled like a barn.
As I was still in pain from rafting, I decided not to hike Colca Canyon. Besides the fields and the views, Colca Canyon (Cruz del Condor viewpoint) is the place to watch Andean condors as they soar gracefully on the rising thermals in the early morning (8-9 am). The condor is the largest flying bird in the Western Hemisphere with wingspan from 2.7m to 3m. Quite a view!
Traditional dresses and hats of Colca Canyon women
More pictures on flickr.
We bussed to Arequipa (10 hours from Cuzco), a white colonial city in Peru. I could not resist the temptation of comparing Arequipa to Oaxaca, a colonial town in Mexico. Oaxaca won.
We wandered around the white churches, ate at the market and photographed the view point of volcano El Misti (5822m).
The next morning after running around arranging my detour to Lima we headed off to Colca Canyon. The deepest canyons in the world are located close to Arequipa. Colca Canyon is 3191 m deep (6 hours away) and Cotahuasi (9 hours away) is 163 m deeper. It is more than twice as deep as Grand Canyon in the US!
We enjoyed a gorgeous afternoon in the stop-over a small town of Chivay on the way to Cabanaconde. The biggest attraction for me - fields of wheat. I even took a video of wheat moving with the wind. More peaceful and beautiful than a plastic bag in the wind from American Beauty movie.
At night we arrived to Cabanaconde, the most basic village I have stayed in so far. The vast majority of women were wearing national bright dresses with colorful hats. Horses and donkeys were the means of transportation and our dorms smelled like a barn.
As I was still in pain from rafting, I decided not to hike Colca Canyon. Besides the fields and the views, Colca Canyon (Cruz del Condor viewpoint) is the place to watch Andean condors as they soar gracefully on the rising thermals in the early morning (8-9 am). The condor is the largest flying bird in the Western Hemisphere with wingspan from 2.7m to 3m. Quite a view!
Traditional dresses and hats of Colca Canyon women
More pictures on flickr.
16 May 2008
Rafting in Apurimac River
Lonely Planet (buy Footprint guides - more info!) puts Apurimac River in its top3 for rafting. It is deep, fast and much more exciting (=dangerous) than Urumbamba river (comparing commercial routes). Rapids are class 3 to 5 vs. Urumbamba's 1-2. Only two companies in Cuzco run rafting trips on Apurimac River (Mayuc and Swiss Rafting). The 3-day/2-night trip with Mayuc costs 550 soles (approx. USD 200).
We were 25 people, 65% of which were Israelis. Rafting is definetely on Israeli´s trail and not on gringo´s as 80% of Mayuc clients are Israelis. Some guides even give instructions in Hebrew. Quite funny.
My rafting experience was basically zero. I don´t think I was even paddling on a quiet river in Pennsylvania. Here I had to learn to react fast to such commands as "forward", "right/left back", "high side right/left" and my favorite "inside" (or our guide´s version - "my God!", the command to slide to the bottom of the raft).
Our three day trip was 67 km long with the second day being the longest. We were rafting for about 7 hours. It was fun - technical rapids where we had to turn around rocks in a fast rapid or more exciting rapids with huge waves. I was paddling in the front and was showered by cold waves of Apurimac River. Rapid is passed successfully - high five- paddles in the air!
The third day turned out to be the scariest day of my life. An hour and a half before the end of the trip we were going through a shallow rapid category 3 just before a rapid class 5. Our raft got stuck on a rock and the rest was happening within seconds. The boat started to get filled up with water and before I knew it me and a guy behind me were washed out by the strong stream. I was floating down the river completely not in control of my body or direction. I saw nothing, I could not catch my breath and I was constantly feeling I was drawing. I was trying to relax as I was instructed to do and let the water bring me somewhere safe, but it was easier said than done. I was thrown at rocks by the river and it did not feel welcoming at all. As I was "speeding" along a huge rock I saw the safety rope was thrown for a guy behind me. I went underwater and could not get out. Most probably just a few minutes have passed, but I was already exhausted to fight the river. In that moment I was honestly saying good-bye to my family. Then in a few seconds I appeared close to the first raft. Thanks to the quick reaction of guys inside the boat I was pulled out of the water. Within 5 minutes or so my breath was back to normal. I was in a state of shock and quite angry.
The river was so strong, one of my contact lenses was washed out. I was also pretty hurt in my right arm. It was not broken or dislocated, but I still could not move it. There was no more paddling for me that day.
In hence sight I think I was lucky to be pulled out by that boat as the next rapid class 5 was within meters and safety kayaks were behind me. However, given I had a helmet and a life jacket on I would most probably survived anyway. I was still conciseness and breathing when saved, so quite a happy ending!
Now I am waiting for my ugly bruises to go away and my arm to heal. After that I am ready for more adventure!
We were 25 people, 65% of which were Israelis. Rafting is definetely on Israeli´s trail and not on gringo´s as 80% of Mayuc clients are Israelis. Some guides even give instructions in Hebrew. Quite funny.
My rafting experience was basically zero. I don´t think I was even paddling on a quiet river in Pennsylvania. Here I had to learn to react fast to such commands as "forward", "right/left back", "high side right/left" and my favorite "inside" (or our guide´s version - "my God!", the command to slide to the bottom of the raft).
Our three day trip was 67 km long with the second day being the longest. We were rafting for about 7 hours. It was fun - technical rapids where we had to turn around rocks in a fast rapid or more exciting rapids with huge waves. I was paddling in the front and was showered by cold waves of Apurimac River. Rapid is passed successfully - high five- paddles in the air!
The third day turned out to be the scariest day of my life. An hour and a half before the end of the trip we were going through a shallow rapid category 3 just before a rapid class 5. Our raft got stuck on a rock and the rest was happening within seconds. The boat started to get filled up with water and before I knew it me and a guy behind me were washed out by the strong stream. I was floating down the river completely not in control of my body or direction. I saw nothing, I could not catch my breath and I was constantly feeling I was drawing. I was trying to relax as I was instructed to do and let the water bring me somewhere safe, but it was easier said than done. I was thrown at rocks by the river and it did not feel welcoming at all. As I was "speeding" along a huge rock I saw the safety rope was thrown for a guy behind me. I went underwater and could not get out. Most probably just a few minutes have passed, but I was already exhausted to fight the river. In that moment I was honestly saying good-bye to my family. Then in a few seconds I appeared close to the first raft. Thanks to the quick reaction of guys inside the boat I was pulled out of the water. Within 5 minutes or so my breath was back to normal. I was in a state of shock and quite angry.
The river was so strong, one of my contact lenses was washed out. I was also pretty hurt in my right arm. It was not broken or dislocated, but I still could not move it. There was no more paddling for me that day.
In hence sight I think I was lucky to be pulled out by that boat as the next rapid class 5 was within meters and safety kayaks were behind me. However, given I had a helmet and a life jacket on I would most probably survived anyway. I was still conciseness and breathing when saved, so quite a happy ending!
Now I am waiting for my ugly bruises to go away and my arm to heal. After that I am ready for more adventure!
15 May 2008
The Sacred Valley near Cuzco
Last week I went on a 2.5 day trip by myself through the Sacred Valley. It is basically a loop road with a number of Inca sites on the way. A lot of tourist agencies offer a rush one day tour through the Valley, but I decided to take my time to enjoy small villages and landscapes.
On Sunday afternoon I headed for a big Sunday market in Pisac, where I stayed overnight. The market is 99% souvenir shopping, so highly disappointed I went off wandering around amazing fields outside of town with the view on the valley and nearby mountains. Much better!
At 7 am in the morning I hiked up to the ruins of Pisac and already at 10:30 am caught a bus to Ollantaytambo (with a change in Urumbamba).
Ollantaytambo serves as a hub for Machu Picchu hikes/trains to Aguas Calientes, but it is also a cute little town with its own ruins. Ruins were crowded, so I headed off to another hill. I just around how to get there and climbed up. I got off the road and did some simple rock climbing. The hills are like steps - very easy to climb.
The next morning I headed towards Cuzco. My first stop was in Turumbabma where I climbed the hill to get to Las Salineras (salt mines), actually for free. It is quite an amazing site with salt pools filling up the hills like rice terraces in China. I walked to the official entrance in the afternoon heat wondering how I will get back on the main road. I was inside the canyon with no desire to return the way I came and no idea how far away the highway was from another side.
A driver of the lonely minivan with tourists told me I was 15 km away from the main road I was trying to get to. And no, he cannot give me a ride, he has tourists in his van. So I waited, chewing on grapes I bought at the Ollantaytambo´s market. Next minivan with tourists arrived and I approached with the same entreaty. Alright, he said, while his tourists are wandering around the salt mines he would give me a lift. Man, it was far. I got out of the situation very easily. All the way to the top the driver was drilling me with questions - how did i get to Las Salineras in the first place, where I was from, who I was traveling with. Alone? Not afraid?
The road from Urumbamba to Chincheros is the most amazing in the valley. The 15 km turn off to Las Salineras was equally stunning (no pictures). Snow covered mountain peaks on one side of the road and green fields on another. Postcard perfect view.
I was dropped off on the main road right when my bus was approaching. In another 30 minutes I got off in a small typical village of the valley - Chincheros. The highlights of Chincheros are cute little streets and an old colonial church. At lunch time the town was dead. I was back on a bus in less than 2 hours.
Got back to Cuzco just on time to pay for my rafting trip starting the very next day.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/in4ik/sets/72157605063695097/
On Sunday afternoon I headed for a big Sunday market in Pisac, where I stayed overnight. The market is 99% souvenir shopping, so highly disappointed I went off wandering around amazing fields outside of town with the view on the valley and nearby mountains. Much better!
At 7 am in the morning I hiked up to the ruins of Pisac and already at 10:30 am caught a bus to Ollantaytambo (with a change in Urumbamba).
Ollantaytambo serves as a hub for Machu Picchu hikes/trains to Aguas Calientes, but it is also a cute little town with its own ruins. Ruins were crowded, so I headed off to another hill. I just around how to get there and climbed up. I got off the road and did some simple rock climbing. The hills are like steps - very easy to climb.
The next morning I headed towards Cuzco. My first stop was in Turumbabma where I climbed the hill to get to Las Salineras (salt mines), actually for free. It is quite an amazing site with salt pools filling up the hills like rice terraces in China. I walked to the official entrance in the afternoon heat wondering how I will get back on the main road. I was inside the canyon with no desire to return the way I came and no idea how far away the highway was from another side.
A driver of the lonely minivan with tourists told me I was 15 km away from the main road I was trying to get to. And no, he cannot give me a ride, he has tourists in his van. So I waited, chewing on grapes I bought at the Ollantaytambo´s market. Next minivan with tourists arrived and I approached with the same entreaty. Alright, he said, while his tourists are wandering around the salt mines he would give me a lift. Man, it was far. I got out of the situation very easily. All the way to the top the driver was drilling me with questions - how did i get to Las Salineras in the first place, where I was from, who I was traveling with. Alone? Not afraid?
The road from Urumbamba to Chincheros is the most amazing in the valley. The 15 km turn off to Las Salineras was equally stunning (no pictures). Snow covered mountain peaks on one side of the road and green fields on another. Postcard perfect view.
I was dropped off on the main road right when my bus was approaching. In another 30 minutes I got off in a small typical village of the valley - Chincheros. The highlights of Chincheros are cute little streets and an old colonial church. At lunch time the town was dead. I was back on a bus in less than 2 hours.
Got back to Cuzco just on time to pay for my rafting trip starting the very next day.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/in4ik/sets/72157605063695097/
13 May 2008
Left Cusco
Last morning I left Cusco, the capital of Inca culture, where I've spent the most amazing two weeks of my trip so far. Right now I am 10 hours of bus ride away - in Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru. My plans are changing fast and it looks like I am heading north instead of south to visit Lima for a couple of days. Once I get there and find a decent internet connection, I will be able to write about my visit to Sacred Valley and a dramatic rafting trip on Apurimac river. Colca Canyon is tomorrow.
07 May 2008
Classic Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
I have completed, as our tour guides used to say, the bloody Inca trail on Saturday night and I could not have been happier. It was fun, challenging and gorgeous.
It takes 4 days and 3 nights to walk 49 km from the village of Ollantaytambo (or km 82) to Sun Gate at Machu Picchu. The Inca trail experience for me was by far more rewarding than Machu Picchu with its thousands of tourists. Feel free to throw stones at me.
All the guidebooks write than Inca trail is overcrowded and suggest to take alternative routes to Machu Picchu. I disagree. According to new rules, only 200 hikers are allowed per day along with 300 porters. Given the number of campsites along the way, it did not feel crowed at all. Quite the opposite experience is at Machu Picchu itself.
Inka trail is interesting in itself as it is almost 80% original Inca construction (after lunch of Day 2), small steps up and down allow you to jog like Incas did centuries ago. Moreover, along the trail there are a few well-preserved ruins that impressed me more than Machu Picchu due to the setting in the mist or jungle, tucked between the green mountains.
a shot from the bus, driving to the start of the trail - amazing Sacred Valley
Day 1 was fairly easy as we started hiking at around 11 am and finished at 6 pm. Only the last hour and a half was uphill - we were approaching Dead Woman´s Pass.
The first ruins on the way - Llactapata
Day 2 was the longest and the hardest. Starting at 7 am we were hiking uphill for at least 3 hours to reach the top of Warmiwañusca or Dead Woman's Pass, which, at 4,215 m above sea level, is the highest point on the trail.
Verónica Peak from Dead Woman´s Pass
The other side of Dead Woman´s Pass
An hour and a half of downhill jumping in big steps we reached hour lunch spot, where a lot of groups camp for the night (the ones who camp earlier on Day 1). We, on another hand, started going uphill again, reaching the second pass of the trail (Runcurakay Pass at 3,850 m.a.s.l.), which, although smaller, was tough. Not even coca leaves would give me the energy. My knees and thights felt every step that afternoon.
After the top we headed downhill again through the thick cloud forest and jungle, where I took video of the mist filling the valley within seconds. There, thirty minutes away from our campsite, we visited one of my favorite ruins - Sayacmarca ("Dominant Town"), which sat on top of a sheer cliff.
Day 3 was relatively easy, depending on the amount of pain you had in your knees and legs from Day 2. I took tons of pictures on Day 3 as the landscape was just overwhelming. We were lucky with the weather, heading into the dry winter season, we saw all the snow peaks we were supposed to see all the way from Cusco. Snow peaks, wild flowers, canyons, clouds hugging the green hills, Inka trail, porters bypassing us - you could not ask for more.
The third and final pass was Phuyupatmarka with ruins right beneath it. The ruins in the mist looked exactly how I imagined Machu Picchu - mysterious, misty, dark, abandoned, empty. Absolutely amazing!
Day 3 brought us two more amazing Inka sites - Intipata (or Terraces before lunch)and Wiñay Wayna ("Forever Young") in the afternoon.
Day 4 I call SAS Peru boot camp. Usually Day 4 is an easy day when you wake up at 4 am, have breakfast, walk to Sun Gate and to Machu Picchu... Not for us. Half of the group expressed a desire to hike up Wayna Picchu, the highest hill at Machu Pìcchu. Since only the first 400 hikers are admitted to Wayna Picchu (and only before 1 pm), our guides decided to divide us in two groups. The first one was sent on the faster track to Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu with an idea to re-join the rest of the group at 9:30 am for a guided tour of Machu Picchu.
Hmmm. We started off at 5:30 am, passed the last control of Inca trail and started running. Literally. It was raining and foggy, but Wayna Picchu group had to make it fast. So off we went. Our guide in front was bypassing our hiker groups at amazing speed. I made it to the Sun Gate in 40 minutes!!! (officially it takes 90 minutes) From Sun Gate you have the postcard view of Machu Picchu, but that day you could not see a thing, thick white fog filled the valley. From Sun Gate we started running again to the entrance of Machu Picchu, another 20 minutes. Machu Picchu was hardly visible. A lot of tourists already!
We were at the entrance of Wayna Picchu a little after 7 am. I was the 81st hiker admitted! We made the steep climb to the top in 30 minutes vs. an hour suggested. Again we were timing, and we were racing. On the top we saw absolutely nothing, but the clouds, but we had fun running from 5:30 am.
Wayna Picchu
The tour of Machu Picchu was OK and at 12 pm I was ready to leave that crowded place!
If I start describing all the interesting stuff I learned about Incas and people from Andes speaking Quechua I will never leave this bloody internet spot. So, just do the Inca trail. I heard you can book it for September. :)
Full Inca Trail set is here.
It takes 4 days and 3 nights to walk 49 km from the village of Ollantaytambo (or km 82) to Sun Gate at Machu Picchu. The Inca trail experience for me was by far more rewarding than Machu Picchu with its thousands of tourists. Feel free to throw stones at me.
All the guidebooks write than Inca trail is overcrowded and suggest to take alternative routes to Machu Picchu. I disagree. According to new rules, only 200 hikers are allowed per day along with 300 porters. Given the number of campsites along the way, it did not feel crowed at all. Quite the opposite experience is at Machu Picchu itself.
Inka trail is interesting in itself as it is almost 80% original Inca construction (after lunch of Day 2), small steps up and down allow you to jog like Incas did centuries ago. Moreover, along the trail there are a few well-preserved ruins that impressed me more than Machu Picchu due to the setting in the mist or jungle, tucked between the green mountains.
a shot from the bus, driving to the start of the trail - amazing Sacred Valley
Day 1 was fairly easy as we started hiking at around 11 am and finished at 6 pm. Only the last hour and a half was uphill - we were approaching Dead Woman´s Pass.
The first ruins on the way - Llactapata
Day 2 was the longest and the hardest. Starting at 7 am we were hiking uphill for at least 3 hours to reach the top of Warmiwañusca or Dead Woman's Pass, which, at 4,215 m above sea level, is the highest point on the trail.
Verónica Peak from Dead Woman´s Pass
The other side of Dead Woman´s Pass
An hour and a half of downhill jumping in big steps we reached hour lunch spot, where a lot of groups camp for the night (the ones who camp earlier on Day 1). We, on another hand, started going uphill again, reaching the second pass of the trail (Runcurakay Pass at 3,850 m.a.s.l.), which, although smaller, was tough. Not even coca leaves would give me the energy. My knees and thights felt every step that afternoon.
After the top we headed downhill again through the thick cloud forest and jungle, where I took video of the mist filling the valley within seconds. There, thirty minutes away from our campsite, we visited one of my favorite ruins - Sayacmarca ("Dominant Town"), which sat on top of a sheer cliff.
Day 3 was relatively easy, depending on the amount of pain you had in your knees and legs from Day 2. I took tons of pictures on Day 3 as the landscape was just overwhelming. We were lucky with the weather, heading into the dry winter season, we saw all the snow peaks we were supposed to see all the way from Cusco. Snow peaks, wild flowers, canyons, clouds hugging the green hills, Inka trail, porters bypassing us - you could not ask for more.
The third and final pass was Phuyupatmarka with ruins right beneath it. The ruins in the mist looked exactly how I imagined Machu Picchu - mysterious, misty, dark, abandoned, empty. Absolutely amazing!
Day 3 brought us two more amazing Inka sites - Intipata (or Terraces before lunch)and Wiñay Wayna ("Forever Young") in the afternoon.
Day 4 I call SAS Peru boot camp. Usually Day 4 is an easy day when you wake up at 4 am, have breakfast, walk to Sun Gate and to Machu Picchu... Not for us. Half of the group expressed a desire to hike up Wayna Picchu, the highest hill at Machu Pìcchu. Since only the first 400 hikers are admitted to Wayna Picchu (and only before 1 pm), our guides decided to divide us in two groups. The first one was sent on the faster track to Machu Picchu and Wayna Picchu with an idea to re-join the rest of the group at 9:30 am for a guided tour of Machu Picchu.
Hmmm. We started off at 5:30 am, passed the last control of Inca trail and started running. Literally. It was raining and foggy, but Wayna Picchu group had to make it fast. So off we went. Our guide in front was bypassing our hiker groups at amazing speed. I made it to the Sun Gate in 40 minutes!!! (officially it takes 90 minutes) From Sun Gate you have the postcard view of Machu Picchu, but that day you could not see a thing, thick white fog filled the valley. From Sun Gate we started running again to the entrance of Machu Picchu, another 20 minutes. Machu Picchu was hardly visible. A lot of tourists already!
We were at the entrance of Wayna Picchu a little after 7 am. I was the 81st hiker admitted! We made the steep climb to the top in 30 minutes vs. an hour suggested. Again we were timing, and we were racing. On the top we saw absolutely nothing, but the clouds, but we had fun running from 5:30 am.
Wayna Picchu
The tour of Machu Picchu was OK and at 12 pm I was ready to leave that crowded place!
If I start describing all the interesting stuff I learned about Incas and people from Andes speaking Quechua I will never leave this bloody internet spot. So, just do the Inca trail. I heard you can book it for September. :)
Full Inca Trail set is here.
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