Mozambique

I am currently going through three thousands pictures from India, which is a big task for anyone especially for someone as lazy as me. But I hope to finish something before New Year’s, otherwise they will be rotting on my hard drive for eternity. In one week I make my way to warm and rainy Singapore and theoretically become serious about my future and all.

But that’s in 7 days. Today I want to publish some photos from my second overland trip in Africa. After visiting Apartheid Museum & Soweto in Johannesburg, Lion park in the vicinity and watching dozens of DVDs at Mufasa hostel, I was ready for another group exercise only two weeks later to make a vow never to travel this way in my life. But since I only had two weeks at my disposal before moving on to India “14-day Discover Mozambique” trip with Nomad was perfect.







We headed south to Swaziland where we went on a game drive in Hlane Royal National Park. We parked right next to the lion family with the cutest cups ever, almost crashed head to head with an elephant and watch white rhinos at the sunset.



The next two days we spent at Tofu beach, which can be easily reach individually from the capital, Maputo, on a hostel shuttle bus. I did snorkel with a whale shark, the largest fish in the world – breathtaking experience I have to say. The fact that the animal is incapable of biting half of my body off did not really calm me down – the size does matter!





Traveling north of Praia do Tofu is as I understand a bit more cumbersome, but very possible with the right amount of time and patience. We, however, needed not to worry as our half-empty overland truck was jumping over potholes of horrible road on the way to Vilanculos.

I fell in love with Mozambique immediately as it was different from South Africa, Namibia and Botswana; in the latter two you hardly ever see a person with the density of population at 2 pps per sq. km. Mozambique was much. North of Tofu (basically everywhere expect closer to the capital) people seemed to live like Himbas but dressed – in huts, no sewage, no electricity. All women wore sarong skirts and carried everything on their heads. Mozambique is a country of countless banana and coconut palm trees that was still curious about us, tourists.

From Vilanculos we did our two day “sail away safari” on Dhow boat to different islands. We were spoiled by the delicious food served on the beach, crazy clean blue waters, dolphins and sun. Snorkeling near Bazaruto Arhipelago at the Two Mile reef was a dream comes true for me. I cannot think of anything more beautiful than color combinations of those fishes. Were even names for those colors invented in any of the languages?









We spent another two days on the beach at Barra Lodge close to Inhambane and with a stop over in depressing Maputo we came back to South Africa. A small incident did happen at last in my travels! My small camera (and a bottle of perfume!) got stolen from the overland truck on the border of Mozambique and South Africa.

The next two days we spend in Kruger National Park. I finally saw plenty of giraffes that were crossing the roads, blocking the road – in other words, picture perfect behavior.



We took Panorama route on the way back to Johannesburg that absolutely gorgeous as well as touristy. My favorite stop was at the Bourke's Luck Potholes.



And a very logical ending to my African travels was a visit to the Moholoholo Rehab Center where the founder was screaming at the top of his lungs about the worsening conditions of pretty much everything in Africa for the wild animals.



The next night I flew to a very different world of India...

The album on flickr as always

Overland Cape to Vic Falls

overland pictures

Overland Cape to Vic Falls

Day 1 - 210 km
We are 12 people with 9 girls and 3 guys – 5 Germans, 2 Swiss, 2 South Africans, 1 American, 1 South Korean and me. I am trying to switch on my German, but only Spanish comes out. We are all in our twenties.

Today we are driving 210 km to the north towards Namibia camping in the Cederberg region, which is the only area in South Africa where rooibos tea is grown. It is the first day of spring and we pass the mountain range still covered in snow.



Day 2 – 535 km

We depart Western Cape and cross into Northern Cape, into the Namaqualand region that is famous for its spring wild flower bloom. In season purple, orange and yellow flowers carpet mountain terrains as far as the eye can see. We however were there a week or two too early. The flowers just started to bloom.


We camp on the South African side of Orange River.

Orange River that starts in the mountains of Lesotho and ends in the Atlantic Ocean is the border between South Africa and Namibia. Namibia starts on the other bank of the river (vs. the middle) and this fact is still being disputed between the two countries. South Africa is not too inclined to give up the river not because of the water but because of the diamonds in there. Some 80 km down the river there is the restricted diamond area where they say you will be shot if appear without any questions asked.

The Orange River is named after the Orange royal Dutch family when diamonds were discovered in 1980s, but the river will be renamed to Galieb River (in Afrikaans Galieb means river, so it will be River River) as many other places in South Africa in an effort by the current government to get rid of names reminding of colonization or apartheid times.

Starting overland tomorrow!

I am getting ready to go on my big overland tour to Zambia through Namibia and Botswana. I am going to see the real Africa – as real as it will get for me this time. Preparation includes shopping for anti-malaria medicine and adaptors, making copies of my passport, visas, insurance; repacking, laundry, and arranging post-departure flights, accommodation and activities.

Since I did not get Zimbabwe visa, I am leaving my group on the last day of the overland to catch a local transfer from Botswana to the Zambian side of the Victoria falls. I spend fours night in Livingstone, fly back to Johannesburg, maybe visit Drankesberg Mountains (cannot enter Lesotho – visas again!) and head to Mozambique on my second 14-day overland through Swaziland and back to South Africa through Kruger National Park. The day after I fly to India.

A special thanks goes to Rob and Shawn from Detour Africa, a travel agency here in Cape Town. Without them none of this would have been possible. I would have still been arranging my visas and what not. The guys are absolutely charming, extremely helpful and knowledgeable. To my surprise I found that travel agencies here can offer you cheaper prices on tours than the tour operators themselves. Arranging everything with Detour has been definitely one of the highlights so far and I know how cheesy it sounds.

We were told to expect the unexpected along with no connection to the outside world for the next 20 days. I expect to get some kind of internet connection in Namibia and in the end of my overland in Livingstone. Internet in Africa is expensive; and you are charged for volume.

Mapping it all out:

South Africa - Garden Route

Just came back from Garden Route, which I explored the lazy way - with Baz Bus, a hop-on hop-off bus service that shuffles backpackers from one hostel to another in South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland. It is quite convenient, but restricting - no interaction with the country.

I found Garden Route to be backpacker's paradise with the nicest hostels I have ever stayed at. All owners were super friendly; beds and sheets - soft and clean; bathrooms as good as at home.

My first stop was at Wild Tongue Backpackers in Nature's Valley where I spent the day hiking near Tsitsikamma National Park.

Next stop was Jeffrey's Bay (or how locals call it - J-bay), the mecca of surfing. Annual Billabong Pro contest packs this rather smalls village for a week. However, now in the winter on a cold day J-Bay was dead. At the hostel Ubuntu we were seven (max 26). On Sunday night we watched Casino Royal (every time I am trying to convince fellow travelers the main guy resembles Vladimir Putin, but I guess only Russians see it) on the big projector. Tucked between the pillows I felt I sneaked into somebody's house and should be kicked out. In fact, Ubuntu is the house of two surfers-owners living on the surfer's schedule - go to bed by 11 pm, rise at 7-8 am, check the surf. If the wave is good, surf.

The third stop was Storms River, where I tried Canopy for the first time. Maybe I was not swinging in the trees like Tarzan, but it was still pretty cool. Storm River is also home to the world's tallest bungee jump (216 m).

Then on to Wilderness, The Beach House Hostel with the views of the Indian ocean to the right, left and in front of you. I did nothing besides walking on the empty beach and hiking to Victoria Bay following the rail tracks.



The last stop was Swellendam, the third oldest white settlement in South Africa. Mountains, hiking trails and the town are charming.


More pictures on flickr

Almost perfect two weeks

My good mood disappeared this morning when I realized my brand new jacket bought in Buenos Aires was stolen last night. I do not know how or why. Instead of being upset I am supposed to be happy that it was just the jacket, but I am not... Not to mention it is freezing in Cape Town too.

South Africa - Cape Peninsula

A drive through Cape Peninsula towards the Cape Point has been so far the highlight of my week. I would have preferred to have done it on my own at my pace, but for now I did it with a tour.

We first stopped in Hout Bay where everybody went on a short boat ride to see a small colony of fur seals. Since no experience can top my encounters with them in Galapagos, I walked around the little port to take in the bright sun.



The next stop was unplanned. A little further south of Simon’s Town southern right whales (“right” is because they were right to kill for their oil and bones; story of their near extinct and revival) were playing by the shore. Literally. The whales are easily seen here between July and October as they pass by the South African shore. No boat or car needed, just stroll on the beach. The southern right whale is recognized by whitish-brownish callosities on its back and head. My camera is no good to take good pictures of wild life from a distance, but callosities are seen.




From Simon’s Town we continued on to a small national park of Boulders Beach with its colony of African penguins. They are cute little creatures and their synchronized strut through dunes is a very funny thing to see. Before the African penguins were called Jackass penguins for their donkey like sounds during courtship.





At about noon we reached Table Mountain National Park. We biked about 7 km among the stunning landscape to reach our lunch spot. A bit more driving and spotting a female ostrich and we reach the main parking lot for Cape Point. We hiked up to the original lighthouse, greeting a lovely baboon on the way there.



Apparently, New York is the furthest point on my itinerary nowadays.




Rio de Janeiro – 6055 km
Jerusalem – 7468 km
New Delhi – 9296 km
Singapore – 9667 km
London – 9693 km
New York – 12 541 km


A 45 minute hike to Cape of Good Hope was amazing, but as with the tours it usually goes it was horribly rushed.



I do not know if anybody would be disappointed to learn that the Cape Point is neither the most southern point of Africa nor where Indian and Atlantic oceans meet. Cape Agulhas is the place, about 300 km southeast of Cape Point. Nevertheless, the place is amazing.

We saw seals, whales, penguins, ostriches, baboons, and a snake during one day – not too shabby!

More animals and landscapes on flick.

South Africa - Cape Town

Before I start describing my first week in South Africa I think I should first say where I am writing this post. I am sitting in a Wild Tongue lodge in Nature's Valley on Garden Route. I was the only guest staying on this huge farm under bright African stars. This place is absolutely amazing and stunning. Unfortunately, this place is being sold due to family issues.

* leaving Buenos Aires

The start was stressful. For no good reason I was late for my bus and got to the airport only 1 hour and 20 minutes before departure. My bag was checked in the last as it took the desk some time to figure out my passport, visas, flights and itineraries. I walk onto the plane 15 minutes before departure. The lines was enormous, but moved quickly. In the US I am sure I would not have been allowed on an international flight so late.

* arriving Cape Town

I arrived at 9 am in the morning, half dead as I watched the movies instead of sleeping on my 7-hour Malaysian Airlines direct flight. Nevertheless, I managed to arrange both Namibia and Botswana visas on the same day. After that I slept for 15 hours in my lovely hostel Inn Long Street.

The next day I spent walking around Cape Town. Some highlights include V&A Waterfront (touristy upmarket shopping and dining), The Bo-Kaap (Muslim colorful area of Cape Town), downtown and its Company's Gardens.


Pictures are on flickr.:

V&A Waterfront with Table Mountains vistas






The Bo-Kaap colors



The Company's Gardens



* First impressions

Everything in South Africa feels new and interesting. Driving on the left side, 6 languages to choose from in the ATM, even coins with wild animals are cute.

The best surprise were the prices. I dare to say South African is cheap. The prices for food and accommodation are not higher than in Argentina. The real expense comes in when you are trying to do anything touristy... like say safari, wine tours, diving with sharks. The latter I am not doing as my heart will stop right there in the cage.