Nairobi debriefs - part 2

Still Thursday

I met Anna for a drink, another INSEAD alum, who is working at Technoserve and just launched a large program between Technoserve, Coca-Cola and Gates Foundation to help local farmers [story here]. It was interesting to hear her point view on expat life in Kenya.

Back at the backpackers world, I met Ben reading Seneca, a 24 year old from London, who bought a jeep and shipped it to Kenya for a 5 month drive in Africa with friends. With his law degree in Oxford, he is banking on a successful career as an M&A lawyer. He plans on working real hard for 14-16 years and then to retire, so now he is living the LIFE, driving through Africa, climbing mountains in Peru and Thailand. I am doubtful about his plan to give up on life for the next decade. You can never eat enough for a week, you will go hungry no matter how full you feel right now.

Friday: I was planning to enjoy my book and the sun today, but got an offer to join a trip to one of the Nairobi slums, where Katherina taught English for three months last year. The program is called Future Kids, supported by University Tier in Germany. By the time we reached Mathare North slum by taking a local bus and then matatu minibus I was already exhausted and dusty. It was hard to be looking around, and even harder to realize what life I was looking for. The sight was depressing to say the least. I would not be able to do what Katherina did, so I applaud her efforts. Best of luck to her at UN, and on a meeting with Barack Omaba's sister here in Nairobi.

 

The School's Chef - Chef #1

Future Kids,  Mathare North slum

On Friday night Bob shared the craziest backpackers story he witnessed staying often in hostels (management work for mines in Africa, any MBA interested?)

- an Israeli guy hitchhiked to Mozambique from northern Tanzania for 7 days straight without stopping for a night in a hostel

- a Dutch lady that drove tractor from Holland to Africa, then shipped her tractor from Cape Town to Anartica to reach the South Pole [read the story on her blog - http://www.tractortractor.org/southpole/]

- a guy from East Timor who walked barefoot the African Continent for 12 years

a bit too crazy for me.

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Overall, I am surprised how friendly Kenyans are. No hassling at all. You get an offer for a taxi once, you say no thank you, and you are being left alone. Even bargaining at the markets was a pleasurable experience.

Tomorrow I am off for my 11 day overland trip in Kenya/Tanzania. Pictures will be posted after the trip sometime in mid-February!

Nairobi debriefs - part 1

I think I surprised myself when I booked a trip to Kenya/Tanzania on a whim. Having had experience in Africa before, I trusted my South African agent and booked a 12-day overland with Drifters.

I got into Nairobi almost a week before my departure, why not to read some books in +28C weather?  I stayed at cheap Milimani Backpackers, chatting my hours away with WorldRace kids, volunteers, UN workers, backpackers and other travelers.

What a week, what an interesting bunch of people!

Tuesday. On my first day I met Laura, INSEAD alum, who is busy starting her own business – “Bush Adventures” – Maasai Warrior Training in the far-far away North Kenya. We chatted how INSEAD does teach you about developing marketing and finance plans but does not teach you where to buy towels!  Taking it down to basics – I love it. I will do it one day. As with Laura’s trip, money in Africa will buy you hard-to-reach destinations, real wild life and undisturbed nature. And very often it is absolutely worth the money.

If you don’t have the money to fly into the bush, take the time to plan the trip. Time in Africa is essential. No online research will substitute backpackers’ stories or shopping around safaris on offer. I know now for a fact I could have done my safari for at least 60% of the price I paid.

Wednesday. I met Joel [his blog], a 23-year old Seattle native on the real around the world tour – over the last 16 months he visited 7 continents. Africa is his last one. I took some notes on his Antarctica & New Zealand experiences, what a great resource of information! He is the fourth person I have met so far who I would consult about my next destination.

Thursday. Souvenir hunting begins. During my 2008 trip I did not buy any souvenirs due to my backpack limitations. Also I think I have developed a reflex, vomiting spasm, to mass market curious. You will be surprised how alike the stuff is around the world, Made in China stuff. But there are exceptions. There are beautiful things that are hand made by local people, by people who really need the cash – jewelry, fabrics, masks, household items, carpets, etc.

Shopping for a wooden mask in Africa is an adventure through made up and true stories about the tribes, their history and traditions. As a tourist, you will never have access to the real antiques, so I decided just get something pretty for a reasonable price.

Having been told about a great location for curios shopping by Laura, I was excited. Directions on sms intrigued me even more – “a place called New Safety Line Lodge, Dubois Street, off Latema Road. There is a sign and a blue metal door with a dark staircase, go to the 1^st floor and ring a bell”. [for real?] I was promised glass beads, masks, wooden statues, bronzes from benin, cloth from West Africa and Congo. Since I was warned how dodgy the area was, I recruited three brave backpackers, emptied my pockets, hid my last euros and off we went.

Behind the bus stations where no tourist walks we did find Dubois Street, and soon I have spotted the Lodge. The sign read NO ROOM, FULL.  We proceeded and rang the promised bell and entered the light courtyard, with rooms around it where a few men  lived and sold their treasures. We were welcomed, toured around in silence, and not hassled at all. The stuff was amazing. At that point of time I decided I wanted to buy something for my-future-apartment-to–rent, but I was overwhelmed by the choice and clueless about the prices. I walked away with nothing. Too bad I was too chicken shit to take my camera with me, a few pictures would have been a nice memory to have, instead I have a few blurry shots from my blackberry phone.

Having walked through the busy City Market and Westland Triangle Curios Market later, I realized how great both the selection and prices were on Dubois street. Thanks, Laura.

[more pictures of souvenirs after the trip ]